My friend Larry referred me to this great idea on Instructables from user Rosenberger31… a DIY usb power outlet for your car. There’s no need to repeat the details here as Instructables stands alone as one of the best DIY sites out there. I will say this though, I’d love to see this in a Lotus Exige S 260 instead of a Prius.
A USB power outlet on it’s own may not make music but it will make it a lot easier to hook up a few of these and pipe them into your auxilary in.
I frequently use Sound Forge to edit large wave files into smaller samples and clips that I then use in software samplers, drum machines, or set aside for further editing, When you’re only creating two or three clips, highlighting, copying, pasting, saving, renaming isn’t a big deal. Recently though while working on a project I found myself I need of creating dozens of clips from a single file… and this had to be done for a hundred files.
Sound Forge scripting to the rescue.
Sound Forge comes with some great built in scripts. For the task above I found the script named “Save Regions as Files” particularly useful. At first anyway. The existing script still required me to name the file and select the file location. This is a minor detail but when you have to repeat this process over 100 times it can be extremely frustrating. With a little help from the Sound Forge scripting SDK I came up with the following modification to the original script that will export all regions to the original file’s directory without any prompting.
The example above is named “Test_Wave_Export.wav”. When running the script the 6 regions are automatically saved in the same directory as the source file in incremental format without any additional prompting. A huge time saver.
Test_Wave_Export-01.wav
Test_Wave_Export-02.wav
Test_Wave_Export-03.wav…
Once the script is saved in the Sound Forge Script folder you can make an icon and add the script directly on your toolbar for easy access. This script uses JScript
——————————————————-
import System;
import System.IO;
import System.Windows.Forms;
import SoundForge;
//Run with a file that contains regions
//Iterates through the regions, renders to format of your choice and
//saves the rendered file to the same directory as the source file
//Scan the file for MODIFY HERE to see how to quickly customize for your own use
public class EntryPoint {
public function CleanForFilename(szName)
{
szName = szName.Replace(“:”,”;”);
szName = szName.Replace(“?”,”!”);
szName = szName.Replace(“*”,”+”);
szName = szName.Replace(“/”,”|”);
szName = szName.Replace(“\\”,”|”);
if (szName.IndexOfAny(Path.InvalidPathChars) >= 0)
{
for (var ch in Path.InvalidPathChars)
szName = szName.Replace(ch.ToString(),”_”);
}
return szName;
}
public function Begin(app : IScriptableApp) {
//MODIFY HERE———————————————–
var szType = “.wav”; //choose any valid extension: .avi .wav .w64 .mpg .mp3 .wma .mov .rm .aif .ogg .raw .au .dig .ivc .vox .pca
var vPreset = “DaveTemplate”; //put the name of the template between the quotes, or leave blank to pop the Template chooser.
var FileFullName = app.CurrentFile.Filename; //obtain the full path and filename of the current file
var szDir = FileFullName.substring( 0, FileFullName.lastIndexOf(“\\”) ); //Set the directory to that of the source file.
var file = app.CurrentFile;
if (null == file)
{
app.SetStatusText(“open a file loser!”);
return;
}
//make sure the directory exists
Directory.CreateDirectory(szDir);
var rend : ISfRenderer = null;
if (szType.StartsWith(“.”))
rend = app.FindRenderer(null, szType);
else
rend = app.FindRenderer(szType, null);
if (null == rend)
{
app.SetStatusText(“Renderer not found. Script stopped.”);
DPF(“renderer for {0} not found.”, szType);
return;
}
var template = null;
if (vPreset != “”)
template = rend.GetTemplate(vPreset);
else
template = rend.ChooseTemplate(null, vPreset);
if (null == template)
{
app.SetStatusText(“Template not found. Script stopped.”);
return;
}
var szBase = file.Window.Title;
szBase = szBase.substring(0,szBase.length – 4);
for (var mk in file.Markers)
{
if (mk.Length <= 0)
continue;
var szName = String.Format(“{0}-{1}.{2}”, szBase, mk.Name, rend.Extension);
szName = CleanForFilename(szName);
var szFullName = Path.Combine(szDir, szName);
if (File.Exists(szFullName))
File.Delete(szFullName);
var range : SfAudioSelection = new SfAudioSelection(mk.Start, mk.Length);
file.RenderAs(szFullName, rend.Guid, template, range, RenderOptions(“RenderOnly”));
}
var status : SfStatus = app.WaitForDoneOrCancel();
DPF(“Done -{0}”, status);
}
public function FromSoundForge(app : IScriptableApp) {
ForgeApp = app;
app.SetStatusText(String.Format(“Script ‘{0}’ is running.”, Script.Name));
Begin(app);
app.SetStatusText(String.Format(“Script ‘{0}’ is done.”, Script.Name));
}
public var ForgeApp : IScriptableApp = null;
public function DPF(sz) { ForgeApp.OutputText(sz);}
public function DPF(sz,o) { ForgeApp.OutputText(System.String.Format(sz,o)); }
public function DPF(sz,o,o2) { ForgeApp.OutputText(System.String.Format(sz,o,o2)); }
public function DPF(sz,o,o2,o3) { ForgeApp.OutputText(System.String.Format(sz,o,o2,o3)); }
} // class EntryPoint
Not much written about this excellently crafted build from Flickr user Collin Mel however he does mention he’ll have a parts list posted in the future.
On the Flickr page Collin links to his source for the LED light bars. I checked the link and the product wasn’t found. What I did find find though was these awesome Playstation 2 thumb joysticks which could be easily rigged up as a midi controller. only $3.90!
I don’t know much about this one except what is written on Matrixsynth
This one in via John L. Rice. It’s a Living VCO made by Peter:
“I’m not a MOTMer & I make my own panels, so I don’t have much to add to this debate. I did however finish wiring my Living VCO module today. Its still on the bench being checked over and is not integrated into my system yet but is looking and sounding good so far.
I managed a FRAC format panel design that has all the stock features and fits pretty comfortably (for me) on a 5U frac panel.
Here’s a pic of the module taken some time ago before beginning wiring.
peter”
You can get the original post here:
http://matrixsynth.blogspot.com/2010/05/living-vco-diy-module.html
Rare Beasts is out of Australia and they make a small unique selection of great handmade effects-processors/audio noise machines. Definitely take a look at their custom gear at their Etsy shop. The most recent release is a great little sampler/looper/noise generator called The Wicks Looper – Acid Mix.
From Rare Beasts’ Etsy site:
The Wicks Looper has 3 main controls; The frequency control adjusts the frequency of the noise, the first half of the range is tame, the 2nd half is uncut noise. The second control is Speed, which controls how fast the loop is played. The right hand side of this control plays the loop, forwards, turn the control to the left and the loop will play in reverse. Write the loop at a slow tempo then speed it up and reverse it, for a great effect. The third control is the write button, when pressed it writes a sound to memory which is then replayed next time the loop is run. With the Freq control knob adjusted anticlockwise, you can add a rest to the loop by pressing the Write button.
The video says it all… simple and cool.
Kathrin uses the manual manipulation of photodiodes over moving “tracks” of a variety of sewn fabric to generate rhythmic droning passages. The movement of several of the fabric tracks, at different speeds, directions, lengths, and composition makes this fascinating to watch and listen too. I for one am looking forward to what Kathrin does next.
fabricmachine from Kathrin Stumreich on Vimeo.
From Kathrin’s website:
The instrument
Two fabric loops, driven by a motor divide space. At certain points there are light sensors installed to receive signals, which get translated in audio signals.
Musicality and design
Fabrics which differ in their weaving technique, are sewed one after another (each loop consists of 196 inch length, with a width of 4,2 inch), creating a fabric track.
The basic parameters which take influence on the sound generation and can be chosen by playing consist of the following:
The frequency ( Hertz) or tone pitch is created by the quality of the fabric, weaving tecnique, basically this is the amount of threads interrupting the light per second. For example very transparent fabrics like silkchiffon create breaks.
Breaks and Rhythm are due to the seam, and the length of each sort of fabric, as well as to the performer
The arrangement of the fabrics in aspects of lenght,quality and the connecting seams are additive parameters for composing a rhythm or a flowing change of the tone pitch (frequency).
The information the lightsensor detects gets transformed into the acoustic signal, which gets amplified and sent to loudspeakers.
Engineering FeaturesThe object that runs the loop is a movable construction and can be taken anywhere.
It works as an instrument as well as a standing alone (interactive) sound art installation.The musicality of the instrument can be experienced by sliding or positioning the sensor across the tracks on the installed amatur.
The title says it all. This is way past old news but it’s still a gem. This photo comes by way of Flickr but it was taken at the first (as in 2007) “handmade music” event at Etsy Labs in Brooklyn NY, sponsored by Etsy.com, MAKE Magazine, and Create Digital Music.
Stu Smith under the project heading ASMO has built this beautiful hand-made custom MAX MSP controller for Chris Cousin. Click the image to see the entire Flickr set. From the ASMO blog:
He works with self made instruments custom built from the modified circuits of electronic toys, keyboards and other discarded gadgets. His work explores the sonic landscape of ‘circuit bent’ instruments and their integration into existing modular synthesizer systems. He writes and performs with the groups Threep and The Buoys and has performed at concerts and festivals across the UK, Europe and New York.
You can see more of ASMO’s work here:
In the world of hacked and modified sewing machines using arduino to control max msp and generate music Lara Grant owns it big time.
From her Flickr page:
Lara Grant, part of the circuit bending orchestra for Diana Eng’s Fairytale Fashion Show held at Eyebeam NYC. Through various hacks and circuit bending techniques, Lara’s sewing machine trigger signals that is then fed onto laptops running MAX/MSP to produce the final soundtrack for the runway. Other team members of the orchestra are Peter Kirn and Matt Ganucheau.
You can see the project blog here:
http://laras-home.com/itpBlog/2010/02/16th-and-mission-p-s-1-version/
Which has many more great closeups like this one…
and more of her and her sister’s work here:
I frequently work on projects in the living room in front of the TV while sitting on the couch soldering away hunched over a disarray of wires, parts, wires, speakers, cords, breadboards, and tools. Whenever I want to work from the couch I have to go into the studio and make 15 trips up and down the stairs, cables, toolbox, parts boxes, soldering iron, etc. It’s always a major hassle. Then, when I’ve finally completed mocking something up on the breadboard and I want to test it I need speakers, headphones, a sound source and I have to connect it all with alligator clips. It’s really inefficient and makes me less apt to start a project because all I can think about is the huge mess it’s going to make.
So I decided to put everything I need into one self contained box; an audio test and development box. Below is a description of the parts and procedure I used to put it together. If you’re in a similar situation hopefully this will give you some inspiration to come up with a solution that works for you.
If you want to see all the project photos in high resolution you can find them on Flickr here: Audio Test Box Images
Initially I needed to build a box. I looked through all my scrap wood and it was all ¾” plywood which would be way to heavy. The smaller pieces were odd shaped and unusable. I looked at everything from cookie tins to shoeboxes and didn’t like anything I was coming up with. I checked Wal-Mart for something I could get cheap and hack into what I needed but I didn’t find anything there. Then I went to Hobby Lobby because I remembered they had some project boxes for putting flower displays in. After looking through the whole store though I found the perfect box. It’s a miniature “child’s desk” with a top that lifts up. It was exactly what I was looking for, I just didn’t know it. Best of all, it was only $15. You can find them here: Wooden Child’s Lap Desk
What I wanted was a box which had a variable DC power supply, an AC jack, an amplifier, speakers, an audio source, an AC outlet for the soldering iron, a place to put some tools or parts, a quick way to hook up audio ins/outs and DC voltage, and room for multiple breadboards.
Most of it I was able to find around the house. Here are the guts from a pair of old busted up (but functional) computer speakers. These had been lying around for years. But even if I didn’t have them I see them all the time at Goodwill for a couple of bucks. It was a bit of a pain to crack these open. Most of them are manufactured so you can’t service them so you have to break the seal on the plastic to get to the guts. I just used a screwdriver and pried the crap out of it until it snapped. Dirty but easy.
The DC power supply I used was one I had purchased a couple of years ago for a project. It’s a Meanwell Switching Power Supply that I picked up at Fry’s. Fry’s is one of the last few national stores that still carry electronic components. It’s convenient if you need something right away… just hop in the car and get what you need… but be prepared to pay a premium. Anyway, this is the power supply: Meanwell Switching DC power Supply I’ve used this power supply dozens of times and it’s great. AC in, DC V+ and V- out with a neutral earth ground. The voltage is adjustable from 10 to 15V DC which covers just about anything I’ll ever do.
Skipping ahead, I started drilling and cutting openings for the parts. Depending on what you’re using for parts and a box you might have to do something different but this worked well for what I was doing. The two speakers in the bac and the AC cord jack on the front right corner so I could comfortably plug it in. I used two tools to cut the holes. The circles were cut with a Dremel tool and the rectangular hole I used a chisel. The wood on this Hobby Lobby box was really soft so chiseling out a hole only took about 10 minutes. One word on chisels… never use them for anything other than wood, store them safely, and keep them oiled. Nothing worse than a fucked up chisel.
The speakers fit perfectly in the back corners of the box. I really couldn’t have built something better than what I bought at Hobby Lobby. And like I said, the wood was really soft so I was able to screw in the speakers directly into the wood using the screws used in the original plastic enclosure. This was much easier than sifting through bins of spare parts finding something to fit. Screwing in the AC jack was equally simple.
Next I installed the amplifier section of the computer speakers. I wanted to use the original DC power supply that came with the speakers so I wasn’t running it off of the supply I’d be using for a project. I simply screwed in the transformer directly into the wood. Now, this probably isn’t the safest way to go about this. The wires are exposed, and there’s no heat sink so do this at your own risk. Next I needed to attach the amplifier to the box. I didn’t have any standoffs that were the right size and the mounting holes were in awkward positions. I decided to make my own brackets. I frequently make brackets for projects using ½” brass strips. You can find these at pretty much any art supply store or train/model hobby store. They’re cheap, really strong, easy to bend, and easy to cut with a Dremel. A couple cuts, bends, and holes drilled and I was set up. I used mounting screws and nuts to adjust the height and stabilize the front of the circuit board
So when soldering it’s important to keep a wet sponge near by to occasionally wipe the tip. I made my own little portable holder that I’ve used for years now. I love Pillsbury’s Flaky Supreme cinnamon buns. When you’re done baking them you slather on that super sugary frosting and they’re delicious. I keep the plastic containers that the frosting comes in and wash it out, cut two plain old sponges in circles and plop them in the plastic container. Add water. It’s just the right size and stays wet for a day or so. Only problem is that it slips and slides all over the place which can be a hassle.
So, to keep the sponge from sliding all over the place and keep it at arms length I chiseled out a circular depression in the top of the box which the plastic container can rest in. Again, the wood is soft on these boxes so it didn’t take long at all. Just took a little patience so that I didn’t slip and chisel out a huge piece of wood.
Next I wanted a built in outlet for my soldering iron so I didn’t need to keep an extra power strip handy just to use one outlet. I went to home depot and bought a wall jack with only one outlet. In this instance I bought a safety outlet. I figured since I’m mounting the outlet directly to wood, with no switch, or fuse the least I could do is get a safety outlet. I’d suggest putting in a power switch and fuse if you try this. Chiseling out this hole took a bit longer and the wood needed to be notched out so the outlet would sit correctly. Also, because of limited space on the side panel I had to trim off the ends of the mounting brackets (not shown in this picture). The Dremel saves the day again.
Skipping ahead, here’s the AC wired up. I stripped out the heavy gauge wire from an old busted power strip and trimmed it to size. I added some heat shrink tube for color coding. The wires on the end of the AC input jack needed to be soldered but on the other ends I crimped on some spade tongues so I could connect/disconnect the wires quickly and easily if needed. I did this for all the AC lines. The wiring is pretty simple. White and black or the power inputs and the center is ground. I go from the input to the outlet to the power supply. Not visible in this picture is the AC power going to the amplifier in a similar fashion.
I had to drill a number of holes on the lid of the box so I could mount binding posts, switches, and jacks. Because the wood was ½” thick I needed a small hole on one side and a large hole on the other to fit the body of the component. Drilling the small hole is easy. Just choose the size that matches the width of the threaded mount on the component. To make a larger hole that sinks in to the correct depth I use an old trick. Measure the depth you need up the drill bit from the tip and then wrap a bunch of masking tape around the drill. Now drill your larger hole over the smaller hole and only go as deep as the tape. I tend to add a lot of tape so in case I push to hard the tape actually stops the drill so I don’t go all the way through the wood and ruin the hole.
Here I mounted three binding posts across the top of the box for DC power. I simply drill holes and screwed the plastic posts into the holes. The wood is soft so they took really well. I did have to tweak the size a bit with a round wood file but that was minimal. Because you can’t get in under the top of the box it’s necessary to solder the connection wire to the bottom of the binding post before you screw it in. I made sure to use heat shrink given the proximity to the DC & AC power wires.
Here are all the binding posts jacks, and switches installed followed by an image of the underside of the lid. All jacks were wrapped in heat shrink tubing. I tidied up the wire using staples from a staple gun. Instead of using the staple gun though I gently pushed the staples in with needle nose pliers so as not to knick the wires. After I had put this all together and tested it I was having a hell of a time getting the audio out to work right. The wiring wasn’t at all complicated so I had no idea what was wrong. I should have known though… one of my switches I bought at Radio Shack. So besides being completely ripped off by having to pay $3.99 for a $0.20 switch, I also got totally hosed because their parts are worthless shit.
These last two are the finished box (for now). You can clearly see I can fit around four or five breadboards vertically on the top of the lid if need be and all my ins and outs are in easy reach. The lid opens up and provides enough extra space to keep the AC power cable, a soldering iron, the sponges, some solder, needle nose, a pencil, or whatever. On the second picture if you look inside you’ll see a little RCA .mp3 player. I bought this at Wal-Mart for 30 bucks. It’s 2GB mp3 player/flash drive that runs on 1AAA battery. What I’ve done is load up 25 clips of various types of instruments or sounds. Guitars, vocals, drums, bass, synths, full songs, etc. This way when I’m testing an audio circuit I’m working on I can listen to how instrumentation actually sounds running through it. And when I’m done I can grab it and go. I used to have an iPod and lost it… which I was OK with because iTunes irritated the crap out of me. This thing was super cheap, has plenty of storage for what I need, and all you need to do to add .mp3s is drag and drop.
And last but not least, here’s a poorly drawn diagram of the entire operation. I’ve set it up so that either an internal or external audio source can feed the development circuit via the internal .mp3 player or an auxiliary stereo ¼” jack. Just connect the input binding posts to the circuit you’re working on (left, right, gnd). If your not working on a stereo set up I’ve added a mono/stereo switch which merges left and right and sends it to the ‘left’ binding post. Second you can easily hear the impact your circuit has on audio I’ve added a bypass switch so you can toggle between your circuit and direct audio out. Third, when the audio exits your development circuit it feeds into the binding posts on the right which subsequently feed the internal amplifier and speakers. Should you prefer to send the signal out to an external amp (or whatever) you can do so via a second stereo ¼” output jack. If the signal from your development circuit is mono, there is a stereo mono switch that sends the mono signal (connected at the L binding post) and feeds it to both the L & R inputs of the internal amplifier. I’ve tried to draw it out so it makes more sense than I’ve written it here. Of course, if you have questions just leave a comment or email me.
